A light hearted and (I hope) amusing record of some of our Campervan Trips.
It is mainly intended to inform friends and family where we are, plus, to keep our children updated on what is happening to their inheritance.
I do try to include details of Camp Sites and Aires, we visit. Checkout the "labels" listed in the right margin,
Please comment if you feel inclined, at least then I know I am not talking to myself (again).
Thursday, 20th April 2017 Just to remind us, we are not in Spain, but, in the Tarn Region of France, and, it is only mid-April, the morning starts sunny, but, decidedly cool at only 12C, but, by late morning, the temperature is improving, and we have a pleasant 20C day. The campsite, Le Moulin du Bidounet, is, I would suspect, an ex-municipal site, I say that, because, it is "functional", ie, every thing is clean, and works, but, it is not "comfortable".
Yesterday, in the evening, we chanced upon a Motorhome Aire, (N44 5' 55" E1 5' 36") just across the river from the Campsite, and nearer to the town of Moissac. It has a good level surface, EHU, and usual services, for 7Euro per day, we decide to move there. It is all automated, with a Debit/Credit card check-in system, operating an entry/exit barrier, with instructions in French and English. Once "settled in", we set off on foot, to
explore the town of Moissac. Moissac turns out to be a rather pretty place. It is on both the River Tarn, and, the Canal Lateral de Garonne. The long distance cycle track, Les Deux Mers (the two seas), passes through here, not that I think we will have time to do very much of that, on this trip. Moissac is also on one of the many Pilgrim Routes, running through France, to Santiago de Compestela, in Spain.
There is a very impressive Abbey, which, according to the information boards was founded in the year 600, although the existing building is more recent, dating from the 1100's (recent!). Not being at all Religious, it is the sheer scale of these old churches which impresses me, and the number of manhours which must have gone into building them and decorating them. This one is no exception, one of the things I notice, is the walls are covered in what looks like wallpaper, to modern eyes, but, it is in fact a repetitive pattern hand painted onto the plastered surface. Given the size of the building, it must have taken hundreds if not thousands of manhours to complete.
Having satisfied our culture requirements for the day (or year even), we head off in search of lunch, which we find in a very pleasant cafe on the square at the from of the Abbey. Whilst in the Abbey, Kathleen has acquired a list of mass times for the coming weekend. There is a slight problem, in that the mass at the Abbey, is not until 11:00 on Sunday, the day we will be leaving Moissac. There are two other places (in Moissac) listed as having Mass at more suitable times, but, try as we might, we cannot find either of them. The problem is solved when we go exploring, in the evening, on the scooter, and find an alternative Church at a small village called Sainte Livrade, which has both a suitable parking area for the van plus trailer, and, a mass at 9:30 Sunday. We also find a Lidl, selling Kathleen's favourite Rose Wine (White Zindanfel), I am not sure which she is most pleased about.
Wednesday, 19th April 2017 A cool 10C start to the day, we are not used to this!
We are soon on our way, just as the sun begins to shine over the hills and bring a bit of warmth to the day. An easy 110 miles today, to Moissac, on the River Tarn. We have left the mountains behind now, a mixture of flat plateau and rolling hills with roads that must have been built by the Romans, arrow straight!
Our destination, Moissac, Le Moulin du Bidounet (N44 5'47" E1 5'21"), an ASCI Campsite, on an island in the River Tarn, just outside the town of Moissac. In true French style, reception is closed, for lunch (ie 12:30 - 15:30), so, we have to wait to get in. The French know how to relax!
We have a three mile stroll in the evening, after two days of sitting on our rear ends, we need a little exercise.
Tuesday, 18th April 2017 The forecast for Benicassim today is 22C and sunny. Although we leave just after 8:00, before the sun is fully above the hills, no reason to suppose it will be wrong.
But, we are heading slowly home, starting today. North along the coast, towards Peniscola, the only problem is that Spanish road building is ahead of our Sat-Nav map updates, and, the N340 is no longer as our SatNav thinks it is, roundabouts have disappeared, to be replaced by fly-overs and new exits. We therefore have to guess the point at which we turn off to head inland toward Leida. But, just as with our experience on our way here, the traffic is generally light, and, the roads excellent. The plan is to stop just short of the Bielsa Tunnel, at Bielsa Town, but, we are there way ahead of schedule, and decide to keep going, through the tunnel, to our alternative stopping off point, St Lary Soulan, in France.
The approach to the tunnel is mostly good quality road, although some sections are a bit uneven, presumably due to wear and tear from the heavy wagons. The scenery is quite stunning.
The tunnel itself is an anti-climax, contrary to what I had read on the internet, from various sources, the road surface is good, the tunnel well lit, if a bit narrow. There were no signs to explain why, but, for some reason, they were only allowing the traffic through in short bursts, and, one way at a time.
The descent on the French side, is, either scenic, or scary, depending on your point of view. I have video, but, not enough data band width to upload it at present, a snapshot, showing one of the many hairpin bends, will have to do for now. Tunnel and descent. I have to admit, drops of several hundred feet, with no safety barrier, and, a distinct smell of hot brake pads, is shall we say, exciting.
We eventually arrive, after 290 miles, at the Aire at St Lary Soulan (N42 49.348' E0 19.397'), our stopping place for the night. Compared to the temperatures we have been used to for the past few weeks, it is distinctly cool, at only 14C. We even have to have the heating on in the morning.
Friday, 14th April 2017 The Easter weather gremlin continues. Coast is shrouded in mist, until about 11:00, but, then the sun burns it's way through, and we have blue sky with a few fluffy white clouds and a scorching 25C. One of our shorter circular cycle rides (11.5miles), brings us to well over 80 miles for the week. Kathleen is now contemplating going for the 100!
Kathleen goes to church in the evening, since it is Good Friday. Later, when I go to pick her up, on the scooter, we notice various statues etc are being assembled outside of the church. We attempt to ask one of the people arranging them, at what time something is likely to happen. Ten o'clock (in the evening, we are told. So, we defy the laws on Pensioners being out after 19:00, and head to the town at 21:30. Sure enough, there is an enormous parade of religious statues.
There are many, many people taking part, some dressed in what, to me, appear rather sinister costumes, reminiscent of the Klan, but, clearly, these costumes must predate that dreadful organisation. There are at least two marching bands, one consisting entirely of drums, and the other, a brass band.
Saturday, 15th April 2017 Sun, blue sky, with light cloud, and 23C. I did say that I thought Kathleen would decide to go for the 100 miles, and sure enough, we do a cycle ride along the coast, which brings us 103 miles for the week.
There is a Music Festival on, at present, in Benicassim. There is a massive temporary campsite, and, the Festival Site is on the edge of town, with shuttle busses provided to take people to the site. In addition, it would appear, there is live music at some of the bars/cafes. It would seem it it is free. The photographs are of a bar called Rock Cafe, near Cafe Vincente, which, we have never seen open, for the past six weeks, but, today, it is buzzing! Sunday, 16th April 2017 Sun, blue sky, with light cloud, and 23C. A short cycle ride, followed by chores (we have to prepare for departure), washing, hair washing etc. Monday, 17th April 2017 Another day of Easter Gremlins for the weather. The forecast says is will be Sun 22C, but, the reality is cloudy, windy and 19C, with a definite threat of rain. The sun manages to shine for a few hours, but, then, in the evening the rain comes, although, just a shower. There is a wholesale exodus of the noisy Spanish, to be replaced by more, quieter, Spanish. Scooter, bicycles etc all loaded.
Friday, 7th April 2017 Blue sky, sun, 22C. A trip to Lidl, to buy beer, and steaks. It so happens, they have a "special" on Cycling Gear, Kathleen decides that her raised cycling skills, demand a new Cycling Helmet. After lunch, we go on a short cycle ride, toward Orapesa.
There is an excellent cycle track, but as we have cycled along on it on previous occasions, we have noticed there are also tracks running between the cycle track and the coast, and we decide to explore these. About 2.5 miles from Bonterra Park, there is a ramp down from the cycle track, at a point where there is a lone house, alongside the cycle track. I am being very precise about this, because, we discover, it is the place where, it would appear, young ladies go for a spot of nude swimming, since there are several of them
frollicing in the water, starkers So, chaps, this is how you find it. I suggest to Kathleen, we could stop and have a picnic there, but, she is not having any of it. I don't have any photographs either, you will have to make do with scenic shots. In addition to not being too keen on the nude swimmers, Kathleen is not too happy with the rather rough and stoney track.
We eventually find a spot where we can scramble up to the "official" cycle track. As you can see, the new cycle helmet has done wonders for Kathleen's cycling, she would never have got up this hill in her old cycling helmet. At several points along the coast, there are towers. They have the appearance of Windmills, but, they are, or were, watchtowers. They were originally built so that the
inhabitants of the area could keep a watch for marauding pirates, or other enemies, probably, the English. Many of them, this one in particular are very well preserved, considering they were built in the 1500's In fact, they are slightly better preserved that the old man holding it up (me). Saturday, 8th April 2017 Sunshine, blue sky, 22C. Today is a 50% hypothetical day. By that, I mean, hypothetically, if Kathleen had grey hair, and, dyed her her hair, then, today, is the day, I would, hypothetically be called upon to dye her hair. By lunch time, the day changed from hypothetical, to real.
In a bid to show that the morning has not been wasted, Kathleen excels, with a lunch of cooked meats, cheese, and bread. Kathleen took these photographs, of me, being looked after, because, she says, I send out a biased view of how well cared for I am. Oh, and, she told me I was to be sure to tell everyone how lucky I am!
Which I enjoy with a nice glass of Rioja.
But, Kathleen cannot resist showing off her frugal lunch, not even any alcohol, well, 1% alcohol shandy does not count. I think this is hint from Kathleen, that strategically holding my plate to mask my middle, is not enough. In the evening, confusion reigns.
We are led to believe there will be a parade, from the church, presumably in connection with Palm Sunday, and, that, tomorrow, there will be a Marathon (running). As Kathleen heads off to church, there is a Half-Marathon In-line Skates race going on. After that, there is a half marathon running race. No sign of the parade from the church. Sunday, 9th April 2017 Sunshine, blue sky, 22C. Today is, apparently, Palm Sunday, the plan was to go into town because there was due to be a procession and other festivities. The procession did take place, but, we, along with numerous other people, went at wrong time, and missed it all! Consoled ourselves with a 12 mile bicycle ride along the coast, followed by an excellent lunch, cooker by my goodself, and, ably assisted by Kathleen. Monday, 10th April 2017
Sunshine, blue sky, 22C. Although we feel like we have not done very much, we have actually done quite a bit today. Fifteen miles of cycling, initially through the countryside, returning via the coast. Making toasted sandwiches, in a frying pan! The method is courtesy of our neighbour Rose. Basically, you butter one slice bread on the "wrong side", put in the filling (ham and cheese, in our case), place the sandwich in a hot, dry frying pan, butter side down, and press down with spatula. After about three minutes, remove, butter the "wrong side" of the top slice, turn over and return to frying pan, butter side down and press down with spatula, Remove after about three minutes. It is done. Tasted delicious, from now on, when we have these, we will think of Rose (and Jeff)! Since this is our last week here, and, it is Easter weekend looming, we do some wine and spirits shopping (to take home). Tuesday 11th April 2017 Sunshine, blue sky, 22C. Our Jim Reeves sing a like neighbour, Karl, and his partner, Wendy, left this morning, heading home.
We spend the morning feeding Kathleen's desire to do 80 miles per week of walking and/or cycling, by cycling to Castellon-de-la-Plana, then return via the coast, stopping off at Penguin for lunch. That is another 21 miles, to bring us to 50 miles for the week, so far (3 days in). Tomorrow, our other neighbours, Jeff and Rose, are leaving, heading a little further south, to Valencia. We had a very pleasant evening drinking wine and chatting to them. We will be sad to see them go, a very nice couple, who, hopefully, we will meet again, perhaps, here, next year. It was Rose who told us about the "toasted sandwich in a frying pan", mentioned above, so, she will be remembered everytime we have a toasted sandwich! Wednesday 12th April 2017 Blue sky, sun, 23C.
We have a day off from the cycling, contenting ourselves with a couple of coastal walks. We try a different bar for our refreshing beer, whilst walking, Cerveceria Gambrinus, in the main street. Two beers for 3.60Euro, and we get two free, and delicious, tapas, plus excellent friendly service from the lone waitress. There are more and more of the "over winter" visitors leaving, and the Spanish Easter holidays have clearly begun. More and more Spanish Families arriving, which is, generally, very nice, and, of course, we are in Spain, but, they are incredibly noisy! Thursday 13th April 2017 Typical Easter weather! The forecast says sun and 23C, the reality is cloud and 13C. The good news is, by 10:30, the forecast has come good, blue sky, sunshine and 23C. As soon as the sun comes out, we head off on our daily cycle ride, a 15 mile circuit today, because, Kathleen feels the 12 mile circuit is now "too easy" for her! After the cycle ride, we sit in the sun, and observe the antics of the Spanish Family who are parked behind us. There appears to be six adults and three children, in a caravan which cannot be more than four birth! Lunch at Pizzeria Danubio, this is the first time in four visits to Benicassim we have seen the place open. It is quite pleasant, and at only 17Euro for two Pizzas and half a litre of red wine, not expensive. Kathleen decides to treat me to Ice Cream at "Mama Luisa's". I have the "large" size, which is too much even for an icecream lover, such as myself. Goodness knows what the "X-large" is like! Have to say, however, it is not the best icecream I have had in Benicassim, the Torre St Vincente, holds that honour, so far... Kathleen does her church duty, in the evening. There is lots of Police activity, the high street is closed off to traffic, there are a couple of Police cars parked, with blue lights flashing, and, even a stage set up outside of the Church. It looks as if some event may be going take place, but, although we hang around waiting for a half hour of so, nothing transpires.
Despite the weather forecast suggesting another sunny day, we wake up to find it is cloudy and positively cool. This is just not good enough! Fortunately by 14:00, normal service is resumed and we have blue sky, sun, and 21C. Since the weather is not being too kind, it is decided we will go to the market at Grau Castellon (Castellon Port), about seven miles away, on the scooter. The market at Grau Castellon is much larger than the one at Benicassim, and, the whole place is busy. We initially have difficulty finding somewhere to park. Our first attempt turns out to be reserved for Police Vehicles only. There are no signs that I can see, but, the clue is in the large, more or less empty, space, with a single Police car and two Police Motorcycles parked in it. Fortunately, a kindly Spanish Policeman comes across and moves us on, nicely, rather than give us a ticket. There are several things I do not understand about Markets, particularly Spanish Markets: a) why are women fascinated by them? b) given that most items seems to cost just a few Euros, and hardly anyone seems to be actually buying anything, how do they make any money? Later in the day, when the sun puts in an appearance, we do some more cycling, to keep up with the Runkeeper challenge. Finally, it is "hair care day". Hair care usually a major pre-occupation of Kathleen, but, this trip, it has been almost "no problem", while this makes for less stress, it also means one of my regular subjects has been virtually eliminated. This appears to be all down to a combination of the hair care products purchased as advanced Mothers Day presents, plus, the hair cutting skills of the Romanian hairdresser, Anca. Saturday, 1st April 2017 Blue sky, just few clouds, sunshine and 20C, back to normal.
First priority is to ensure we cycle enough miles to reach our 80 miles, Runkeeper target, we have 12 miles to do today, and this we achieve with a cycle ride to Orpesa, before lunch. Weekends are busy times, it appears that the locals all go out en-masse, walking, jogging, cycling, children included. For lunch, I have bought a pack of Lamb Chops, as I prepare to cook them, it becomes apparent that my rudimentary Spanish has failed me, clearly, the pack is meant for four people, not two. Fortunately, the error is spotted before I had cooked them all, and, half are packed away in the fridge for tomorrow or Monday. To smooth things over, I open the wine early, amazing how a couple of glasses of Vino Rosado, or Vino Tinto improves a tricky situation. Sunday, 2nd April 2017 Oh dear, it looks as if the weather has become, what we would call in the UK, "unsettled". Bright, sunny and warm this morning, but blowing a gale. Does not look like I planned cycle ride or scooter ride is going to happen today. Kathleen decides it is "a good drying day", which means she decides to wash every thing in sight, clothes, bedding, you name it, it will be washed. Eventually, both the wind and the washing fever calm down. We are able to have a peaceful lunch, and a stroll along the coast (the demon Runkeeper must be fed). It turns out there is a cycle race on at the coast, so every bar, cafe and bar is full, so we end up in town, to get a cooling beer. Back to the van and Kathleen embarks on a second washing marathon. Now, here is a mystery: I am, peacefully, reading my book, just at an exciting bit of the plot comes up, I am disturbed, to remove my shirt, so it can washed. I get back to my book, wearing another shirt. Another exciting bit, bingo, disturbed again to help wring water out of a pair of jeans. My question is "how do they (women) do it", I mean, there are 24 hours in the day, in which to disturb your reading, how do they manage to pick the two crucial times? It is undoubtedly a skill. Monday, 3rd April 2017 Blue sky, 22C. A few chores, ie Food shopping. A cycle ride to Castellon de la Plana, and return via the coastal route (24 miles in total). Castellon, like most European Cities we have visited, is very pleasant. Beautiful Parks. Little squares, with pavement bars and cafes.
There are a lot of new housing developments on the edge of the city. Most, seem very smart, with open spaces landscaped with seating areas etc. But, to be fair, we do pass a couple of graffiti covered high rise developments.
There is one development, we have not seen anywhere else, they have areas within there towns, parks, which I could only describe as "Dog Play Grounds". There is one in Benicassim, and, we come across another at this park in Castellon. Typically, they have a fenced off area, with "toys" for the dogs (ie hoops to jump through, small fences to jump over etc), and of course, the base is gravelled, so they can do their crapping without unpleasantness or danger to anyone else). Seems like an excellent idea to me. True to form of course, not all dog walkers take advantage of the facilities provided.
The park in central Castellon de la Plana is particularly pretty and well kept.
We stroll into one of the small squares to find somewhere to have a little lunch, and a drink of course!
We come across this place, serving up portions of Pizza, with a very novel cutting tool. It is like a hammer, with a sharpened edge, and cuts through the Pizza by virtue of its weight. Kathleen is so taken by it, she cuts her entire Pizza portion into bite sized pieces! Tuesday, 4th April 2017 Blue sky, 21C. Kathleen off to church to do the Lent thing. If you have followed our travels, you will have realised that we do not really do the "tourist thing", at least not the visiting tourist hot spots, ancient monuments etc. The only bit of the "tourist thing" we usually follow is the excessive eating and drinking. But, checking the map, I noticed there was a village, reasonably nearby, which is in Spain's list of most beautiful villages. Vilafames, according to Google Maps, is about 25 miles away.
This should be a plausible trip on the scooter, although, Kathleen is not exactly enthusiastic about long distances (ie over ten miles) and major roads (ie major dual carriageways, with lots of large wagons, on the scooter. The approach is simple, just leave out the unsavoury bits, I suggest we visit Vilafames, saying, "it about 20 miles", and, "we do not have to go on the N340, in fact, about half the distance is on the CV-149, which we have travelled along several times". It is not so much what you say, it is the bits you leave out that matter. Agreement is reached. Off we go, on the CV-149, to the Castellon ring road, we have travelled this way several times.
Once on the Castelon ring road north, it is all new stuff. No problems, traffic is light, and signposting is good, soon, we are joining the CV-10 heading towards Boriol. The CV-10 turns out be NOT a minor road, but, two-lane dual carriageway, with lots of Articulated Wagons thundering along it. Fortunately, the wind noise prevents me from hearing Kathleen's comments on the bluetooth helmet inter-com.
Not to worry, it is only about 6 miles until we reach the exit for Vilafames, and join a smaller, quieter, single carriageway road, through the hills. The remaining five miles is more to Kathleen's liking as we wend our way through scenic hills. Eventually, we reach Vilafames. Thankfully, it is a beautiful little place, but, not spoiled by tacky tourist shops. Kathleen concedes, it was ALMOST worth
being scared out her wits on the way here, in order to see Vilafames. Fortunately, there is a Church open, so, Kathleen can light some candles for our safe journey back to Benicassim. Full marks to her, she most definitely has her "NVQ Biker Chic" badge now, or, she will have, after we have eaten lunch and made the return journey.
Wednesday, 5th April 2017 Dull, cloudy and blowing a gale. By 11:00, the wind drops, but, that just means it rains. Our very jovial German neighbours leave, they have spent the winter at La Manga, and are now heading home to Dusseldorf. They are replaced, by lunch time, by two Rosie and Jeff, from Chester. Eventually (14:00) the sun puts in an appearance, still windy however, and we manage only a 10 mile cycle ride, so, Kathleen's Runkeeper Challenge is looking a bit sick, we should be on approximately 48 miles by now, but, we have only 44 miles done. Thursday, 6th April 2017 Back to blue sky, sunshine and 21C, thank goodness. Kathleen off to church. I do a (very) few chores, to make it look like I have done something, then, read my book (in peace). We cycle along the coast, to keep the Runkeeper Demon under control, we are now ahead of the game at 63 miles, so far this week. Lunch by the coast, with copious amounts of wine, followed by falling asleep. Our very pleasant neighbour, Rosie, gives us some strawberries, she bought on the market this morning. She was only able to buy in quantities of 2Kg (for 3Euro), I can assure you, 2Kg of strawberries is a hell of a lot of strawberries! We do our bit and scoff Strawberries and icecream for most of the evening They are delicious!
